of all, nursery, a small corner of paradise not very pleasing at the
beginning, but quite cordial nevertheless
have a rather precise idea of the shape of the scroll , I took the
photograph of this mando on the site of the Master and I increased it
until getting the 17.6 cm length from the nut to the 12
fret. According to my memories, I had to multiply the size by
approximately. On the photograph, we see a scientist assembly
between the body top view and the scroll back view , because the
photo of back was better on the site, and it was necessary for me
despite everything, the position of hearing like their size. etc
drawing is an assembly between the body of F5 traditional of the plan
Stewmac . It is starting from this plan that I will build my mold.
height of the side is 35 mm, I make a mold a little finer (30
mm) out of plywood. A little less thick, to then be able to
kerfed lining and rim, and also to have a margin of visibility during
of the top to the rim.
of the sawing on the band saw. Note the grips with a small
end as "a martyr" to avoid the pulling up of plywood when the grater
maker thinks !!
October 13, 2004
Here is the headblock . Usually I use walnut . This time I test maple . I made 2 provisional notches which receive the ends of the rims . They will be thus maintained during the drying of the glue .
out higher rim, in a "sheet" of curly maple, 70 cm length,
width and 1.9mm thick . I start by
cutting out with
the band saw to 38 mm width .
I sand in order to have a perfectly rectilinear side on the
sandpaper table (here, a plate of false floor, 30mm on which
sandpaper sheets are stuck.) it is the surfacing machine of
I adjust the hold of sawing on the band saw with 36mm.
Foot-note: a small plywood 5mm sheet on the table of saw
possible to make a sawing more accurate .
last checking comparing with the thickness of the headblock
finally I saw to 36mm width (precaution: 2 checks are better
than one!) Why 36mm whereas the headblock is 35mm, because
it will have a sanding after the kerfed lining will be glued .
ends of the rims must be perfectly clear and crossed perpendicularly, I
use a square and a cutter for that.
curve the rims (operation delicate and stressing) I heat a tube with a
blow torch I plaçe the part to be curved between two metal
and I put it in contact on the hot tube . By giving a certain pressure
on the part, it is magic, wood curves , Attention, the curly maple is
very fragile and breakage is frequent.
view . The arrow drawn on the headblock indicates the direction
of wood grain .
|The first rim is practically ready .|
technique of bending the sides . Now I use a heating blanket controlled
by a thermocouple and a temperature regulator.
side is surrounded by paper soaked with demineralized water . Then the
whole is rolled up by aluminium paper. The heating strip is
fixed against then whole piece is sandwiched between two
the whole piece at the beginning of the procedure. The
about 140°C, I wait 10 minutes before starting to press so the
wood is hot. I start by curving the concave part.
is final result ,after a little sanding
the scroll with the bandsaw
is how I plane the point before gluing the final point
is the process for making the kerf lining . I fix 2 metal band saw
blades on a piece of scrap wood . Then I put 2 kerf side by
I cut until I make contact with metal band saw blades . This process is better for me than trying to cut the kerf on the bandsaw .
and kerf lining glued together . Kerf lining are heated and bent on the
tub before .
25/01/2005 New tool to cut kerf liningA small piece of hard wood with a piece of saw blade , at 5 mm from the edge .
a piece of wood , 2 old metal saw blades are fixed , and 2 kerf lining
are put between , to be cut .
The tool is placed on , and I saw the first cut . Then I jump the tool in the new cut , and saw again
and so on .
, voila .